2008年11月24日月曜日

The 6th Cut – All that Jazz (Shinjuku)

Shinjuku is seemingly just another big city of Tokyo. But this city has thousands of faces. You can find the most sophisticated department store in town and at the same time you can hunt rare bootleg CD’s and records. You can eat classy Thai food in a building where a peep show is performed on the basement floor. In the 1960’s and 1970’s, the Shinjuku area was the heart of Japanese counterculture. This spirit still remains in this city, where you can find lots of jazz joints and theaters and good cafes.

◆Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden
http://www.env.go.jp/garden/shinjukugyoen/english/index.html
Kick off your day at Shinjuku National Garden. It used be a garden of the imperial family, but after World War II, it was opened to the public. Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden holds three different types of garden, a Japanese, French and English style garden. You can enjoy various kinds of seasonal flowers and this is the perfect place to start your day-off. The entrance fee is JPY200.
Closest Station: Shinjuku Gyoen Mae (M10, Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line)
Closest Exit: Exit 1&2 (You can see the gate right after stepping out from the exit)

◆Isetan Department Store (Browsing Cutting Edge Fashion)
Go out by the Okido Mon (Okido Gate) of Shinuku Gyoen and turn left, and go down the street called “Shinjuku Dori” (towards JR Shinjuku Station). After approx. 10 minutes, you can see the Isetan Department Store on you right. Isetan is definitely the most sophisticated department store in town. They have two stores in a row, one is specialized in men’s fashion (Men’s Kan) and another one is specialized in lady’s fashion and foods from all around the world. The way they display men’s clothes, cosmetics and accessories is absolutely something else. As for lady’s fashion, you can buy almost all the acclaimed Japanese brands (Comme des Garcons http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comme_des_Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto http://www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp/en.html, , Issei Miyake http://www.isseymiyake.co.jp/
etc.) as well as European well-known brands. Besides fashion goods, don’t forget to browse the selected import and local food stores in the basement floor of Isetan Department.
Address: 3-14-1, Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Open Everyday)

Recommended Lunch Spot

◆Suzuya (Deep Fried Pork in a tea-flavored soup) すずやGo out of the main entrance of Isetan Department Store (Isetan Men’s Fashion Bldg.) and turn right. Then you can see the street called “Yasukuni Dori”. Turn left and walk down the street approx. for 7minutes. On your right, you can see an old two-story restaurant called “Suzuya”(すずや). Their specialty is Tonkatsu Chazuke (Deep Fried Pork in a tea-flavored soup). The taste is not greasy and the quality of the tender pork is fantastic. Lots of restaurants offer Deep Fried Pork (Tonkatsu), however, Suzuya is the only shop where you can eat this Tonkatsu Chazuke.
Address: Sugiyama Bldg.2F, 1-23-15, Kabuki-cho, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3209-4480 (Open Everyday)

Recommended Dinner Spots

Again, go straight down to Shinjuku Dori and get back to the Shinjuku Gyoen area. You can taste many varieties of South East Asian cuisine around here.

◆Krungtep (Authentic Thai Restaurant)
You can have Thai standard dishes at reasonable prices. The atmosphere is very friendly, lively and service is attentive. With Isetan on your back, walk straight down Shinjuku Dori towards Shinjuku Gyoen. At the intersection where you can find the art supply store “Sekaido”(世界堂), turn left. You can see the sign on your right.
Address: Accord Shinjuku Bldg.2F, 2-12-4, Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3358-9085 (Open Everyday)

◆Zuien Bekkan (Chinese)  隋園別館
They serve authentic Beijing-style Chinese fare. The Dumplings here are a cut-above.
With Isetan at your back, walk straight down Shinjuku Dori towards Shinjuku Gyoen. This is one of the few Chinese restaurants in Tokyo where you can eat mutton shabushabu. After approx. 10 minutes, you can find Zuien Bekkan (隋園別館) on your left.
Address: 2-7-4, Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3351-3511 (Open Everyday)

If you are tired of walking back to the same area, these restaurants are highly recommended.

◆Keika (Ramen (Japanese noodle influenced by Chinese cuisine) joint)  桂花They serve authentic Kumamoto (southern part of Japan) style Ramen. The thick pork-bone based soup may be addictive. With Isetan to your back, walk towards Shinjuku Gyoen and cross the street. Then, turn left at the second corner. You’ll find Keika (桂花) on your right after approx. 5 minutes walk.
Address: 3-7-2, Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3354-4591 (Open Everyday)

◆Tatsukichi (Kushiage Restaurant)   立吉They serve high-quality skewered morsels (various sea foods, vegetables and meats) that are lightly deep-fried. Ordering is simple, just tell them when to stop and ingredients you can’t eat. To get to Tatsukichi, with Isetan behind you, turn left at the corner between Mitsukoshi department store and Marui. After approx. 7 minutes, you can find Tatsukichi (立吉)on your right.
Address: Ikeda Bldg. 4F, 3-34-16, Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3341-9322 (Open Everyday)

◆One for the Road?
Samurai (Jazz bar) サムライ
Probably you cannot find this kind of bar in any other country. Upon getting into the bar, you are welcomed by thousands of cat totems, which are considered lucky charms here, and a huge collection of analog and digital jazz albums. Friendly service, and the food and drinks are reasonably priced. You may also come across curious live performance sometimes. To get to Samurai, with Isetan on your back, turn left at the corner between the Mitsukoshi department store and Marui. Then, turn right at the third corner. Samurai (サムライ)is located on the 5th floor of the building that has a Soba shop on the first floor (a few minutes walk from Tatsukichi).
Address: Mori Bldg.5F, 3-35-5-, Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3341-0383